Diva Constellations, V&A London, ©Tal Rosner

The “DIVA” exhibition at the V&A Museum explores the world of “divas” across opera, stage, popular music, and cinema, shedding light on how this concept has evolved and transformed over time through the creativity of iconic artists.

Uncovering the origins of the term “diva,” which means “goddess” in Italian, the exhibition examines how its meaning has been subverted and redefined throughout history. From opera singers and silent film stars to contemporary global sensations in film and pop music, the exhibition narrates the compelling and personal stories of some of the most renowned divas. It delves into their creativity, ambition, and resilience, exploring the intersections where artists engage with society and their pivotal roles in social and political change, such as contributing to global civil rights and feminism.

“At the heart of this exhibition is a story of iconic performers who with creativity, courage and ambition have challenged the status quo and used their voice and their art to redefine and reclaim the diva”

Kate Bailey, Curator

Cher, Elton John, and Diana Ross, 1975. Photo: Mark Sullivan/Contour, Getty Images.

Among the 60 costumes on display are Maria Callas’ stage outfit for the Covent Garden Opera Company production of “Norma” in 1952; Marilyn Monroe’s black dress as Sugar “Kane” Kowalczyk in “Some Like it Hot” (1959); iconic fashion designer Bob Mackie’s costumes for Tina Turner, P!nk, and Cher; Elton John’s Louis XIV-inspired look for his 50th birthday celebration, designed by Sandy Powell; Shirley Bassey’s custom “Wellington boots” and pink dress by designed Julien MacDonald, which she wore on stage at Glastonbury (2007); and Janelle Monae’s “vulva pants” designed by Duran Lantink for the “Pynk” video (2018).

View from the exhibition, ©V&A London.

Designed as a grand stage, “Act One” of the exhibition is devoted to the historical context of the Diva. It commences with the early opera divas Adelina Patti and Jenny Lind, showcasing their creation and performance of extraordinary roles that garnered them wealth and fame at a time when most women could neither study nor pursue a career. “Act One” further explores how actresses like Ellen Terry, Sarah Bernhardt, and Marie Lloyd spearheaded the initial wave of feminism. Additionally, it sheds light on silent movie stars Clara Bow and Mary Pickford, as well as Hollywood’s Golden Age stars Vivien Leigh, Mae West, and Marilyn Monroe, illustrating how these powerful women of the 20th century advanced the fight for equality. The first section also explores the impact of cult status and examines the role of studios and the press in fueling public interest in the private lives of the divas.

Tina Turner on stage in 1980 wearing her “Flame Dress” designed by Bob Mackie. Photo: Gai Terrell, Redferns, Getty Images.

The “Act Two” of the exhibition explores how artists, regardless of gender, have redefined the title of “diva” in recent history and today, expressing their art, voice, and sense of self. Examining figures such as Rihanna, Dolly Parton, and Barbra Streisand, this section examines the phenomenon of the “diva brand.” It sheds light on how these divas navigate the historically male-dominated music and film industries, simultaneously venturing into the business world. The section focuses on artists like Billie Holiday, Nina Simone, and Ella Fitzgerald who courageously resisted backlash, criticism, and danger to challenge the status quo. It explores how Aretha Franklin’s “Respect” (1967) emerged as an anthem for the women’s movement and the Civil Rights Movement in the US, examining how modern artists employ their voices to effect social and political change.

View from the exhibition, ©V&A London.

The dazzling exhibition, which can also be described as a narrative of popular culture history, promises viewers an auditory experience as well. Through the 360-degree “surround sound” system provided by headphones given to visitors at the entrance, the journey among costumes and objects belonging to divas is accompanied by the music of Maria Callas, Jessye Norman, Aretha Franklin, Josephine Baker, Dolly Parton, Adele, Prince, Ella Fitzgerald, Sade, Beyoncé, and Madonna.

The exhibition will be on display at the V&A London until April 7th.

Click here for more information.

DIVA
Location: V&A London
Date: June 24, 2023 - April 7, 2024
Chief Curator: Kate Bailey
Project Curator: Veronica Castro